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Ariel Frager
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More than 20 years ago, my surfer friend Dave drove past Tillamook on the Oregon Coast and turned south onto an undeveloped gravel road.
Bumping along for what felt like forever, we passed the Sand Lake Recreation Area and crested over the windswept bluff at Cape Lookout into the village of Pacific City. The sweet right-handed beach break was popular with surfers, and we nudged our way into the lineup, paddling out nearly directly from the parking lot at Cape Kiwanda.
Even though I had lived in Oregon for years, I had never heard of this secret little beach town or its mellow, consistently rolling surf break. After our first session, I asked Dave how he knew about Pacific City, and he answered, “Surfers know the good spots way before anyone else.”
Pacific City is located 96 miles southwest of Portland on the central Oregon Coast.
Three miles of uninterrupted beach are protected by the towering headland of Cape Kiwanda at the north end. This breakwater shelter helps create conditions for excellent surf and a safe spot for dory boats to launch.
The 250-foot sand dune is a favorite for its steep slope and panoramic views from the peak.
Like most sand dune climbers, our family loves the feeling of flying back down, our dog leading our little pack. The uninterrupted expanse of shoreline at Pacific City is perfect for long walks away from the crowds that gather close to Cape Kiwanda.
Ariel and her family after surfing the waves in Pacific City, Oregon.
Surfing and beer have historically been the main drivers of Pacific City visitors.
Founded in 1996, Pelican Brewing Company‘s prime beach location overlooks the surf wave at Cape Kiwanda and remains one of the few oceanfront breweries in the United States. Boasting over 450 awards, including honors at the Beer World Cup and the Great American Beer Festival, the Pelican is a beacon for beer lovers — not to mention a scenic, natural spot for a drink and bite after a surf session.
First-time surfers will find the wave at Pacific City an easy place to learn, in part due to the expert instruction from Moment Surf Company. My husband and son recently spent a morning with a few of their instructors, Deklyn, Dayl, and Sean. The trio guided them both on land, teaching the art of popping up onto the board, and in the water, pushing them into the slow rolling waves. I had a great vista of their progress between sets of my own waves.
The Pelican Brewing Company tends to be the main game in Pacific City for dining, but the wait times for a table can be really long. That said, folks can always grab a beer from the bar and sit out on the back deck to stare dreamily at the breaking waves.
For a fancier meal, visitors can check out Meridian Restaurant and Bar at the vibey Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa, located directly across the parking lot from the Pelican. Leaning heavily on local ingredients from both land and the sea, the food has a strong Pacific Northwest flavor that complements the soaring views. Reservations recommended.
Beer at the Pelican Brewing Co. in Pacific City, Oregon.
Head to Los Caporales to satisfy all of your old school, Mexican-American food cravings. Expect giant plates of signature Mexican dishes like enchiladas, chili rellenos, tacos, and tostadas loaded with cheesy beans and rice.
I love nothing more than going out for a leisurely breakfast, and the Grateful Bread hits all the high notes. The hearty scrambles, all named after Grateful Dead tunes, are tasty, and other classic offerings are nicely paired with in-house baked goods. They also have a full lunch menu.
Given the limited restaurant options in PC, our family often makes elaborate seafood-heavy meals at whichever house we rent for our visit. Cape Kiwanda Marketplace has a nice selection of freshly caught fish and often has locally smoked salmon that is the hero for our favorite smoked salmon pasta.
The Inn at Cape Kiwanda looks directly out at the surf spot, albeit across the road and past the beach parking lot. The rooms were recently updated when a big property management firm acquired the hotel, and I miss the more personal touches like Friday afternoon drinks and free coffee in the lobby from before the corporate takeover.
The location is perfect, and every room looks west toward the ocean.
The same corporate group manages the luxury Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa. Built right on the bluff directly above the beach, Headlands opened in 2018, offering a welcome high-end experience on the Oregon Coast. The rooms are a bit on the cozy side, but the expansive view of the surf makes the space feel much bigger. Each floor of the lodge has an honor snack bar filled with locally sourced sweet and savory treats.
There is a full spa, outdoor hot tub, and even an activities concierge they call “adventure coaches,” who will plan local excursions. I particularly enjoyed the sunset bonfire on the beach. The coaches built the fire, provided comfy seating, stocked a cooler with beer, wine, non-alcoholic drinks for the kids, and all the fixings for s’mores.
Ending the day with the sun setting along the ocean horizon felt like the best kind of Pacific Northwest luxury.
More often than not, we tend to rent a beach house. This is the best bet when we are visiting Pacific City with more than just our immediate family.
VRBO, Airbnb, and the local Meredith Lodging all offer both beachfront and inland houses for rent. Even though Pacific City is relatively under the radar, finding a beachfront rental house for a summer week will take planning, as they often book six months to a year in advance. Some inland properties are easier to find without that much lead time.
Views of the Northern Lights in Pacific City, Oregon.
Pacific City has grown in the 20 years I have been visiting, but it remains a somewhat in-the-know kind of beach town. The hordes of Oregon Coast tourists tend to visit mainstays like Cannon Beach and Seaside, further north up Highway 101, leaving Pacific City to the beer lovers and surfers.
There isn’t much to do besides walking along the beautiful beach, running up a giant sand dune, and enjoying the soothing sounds of the Pacific Ocean crashing upon the shore. That’s just fine with me; I’ll keep riding this wave for as long as I can.
Photos by Ariel Frager
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About the Author: Ariel Frager loves to get outside to play, be it surfing, traveling the world or walking the dog. She is a school counselor and mental health therapist during the week and pursues her passion for exploring new places and cultures as a travel writer. Ariel’s writing has been published in a variety of print and online outlets including: Travel + Leisure, Gear Junkie, Bearfoot Theory, Family Vacationist and others. Ariel writes about outdoor and family adventures in her beloved Pacific Northwest and beyond. She lives in Portland, Oregon, with her family.
The post Follow the Surfers: An Insider’s Guide to Pacific City, Oregon appeared first on Road Trips For Families.
Bumping along for what felt like forever, we passed the Sand Lake Recreation Area and crested over the windswept bluff at Cape Lookout into the village of Pacific City. The sweet right-handed beach break was popular with surfers, and we nudged our way into the lineup, paddling out nearly directly from the parking lot at Cape Kiwanda.
Even though I had lived in Oregon for years, I had never heard of this secret little beach town or its mellow, consistently rolling surf break. After our first session, I asked Dave how he knew about Pacific City, and he answered, “Surfers know the good spots way before anyone else.”
Big Beach, Small Town
Pacific City is located 96 miles southwest of Portland on the central Oregon Coast.
Three miles of uninterrupted beach are protected by the towering headland of Cape Kiwanda at the north end. This breakwater shelter helps create conditions for excellent surf and a safe spot for dory boats to launch.
Sand Dunes, Surfing, and Sips
The 250-foot sand dune is a favorite for its steep slope and panoramic views from the peak.
Like most sand dune climbers, our family loves the feeling of flying back down, our dog leading our little pack. The uninterrupted expanse of shoreline at Pacific City is perfect for long walks away from the crowds that gather close to Cape Kiwanda.
Ariel and her family after surfing the waves in Pacific City, Oregon.
Surfing and beer have historically been the main drivers of Pacific City visitors.
Founded in 1996, Pelican Brewing Company‘s prime beach location overlooks the surf wave at Cape Kiwanda and remains one of the few oceanfront breweries in the United States. Boasting over 450 awards, including honors at the Beer World Cup and the Great American Beer Festival, the Pelican is a beacon for beer lovers — not to mention a scenic, natural spot for a drink and bite after a surf session.
First-time surfers will find the wave at Pacific City an easy place to learn, in part due to the expert instruction from Moment Surf Company. My husband and son recently spent a morning with a few of their instructors, Deklyn, Dayl, and Sean. The trio guided them both on land, teaching the art of popping up onto the board, and in the water, pushing them into the slow rolling waves. I had a great vista of their progress between sets of my own waves.
Dining Out, Staying In: Pacific City Cuisine
The Pelican Brewing Company tends to be the main game in Pacific City for dining, but the wait times for a table can be really long. That said, folks can always grab a beer from the bar and sit out on the back deck to stare dreamily at the breaking waves.
For a fancier meal, visitors can check out Meridian Restaurant and Bar at the vibey Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa, located directly across the parking lot from the Pelican. Leaning heavily on local ingredients from both land and the sea, the food has a strong Pacific Northwest flavor that complements the soaring views. Reservations recommended.
Beer at the Pelican Brewing Co. in Pacific City, Oregon.
Head to Los Caporales to satisfy all of your old school, Mexican-American food cravings. Expect giant plates of signature Mexican dishes like enchiladas, chili rellenos, tacos, and tostadas loaded with cheesy beans and rice.
I love nothing more than going out for a leisurely breakfast, and the Grateful Bread hits all the high notes. The hearty scrambles, all named after Grateful Dead tunes, are tasty, and other classic offerings are nicely paired with in-house baked goods. They also have a full lunch menu.
Given the limited restaurant options in PC, our family often makes elaborate seafood-heavy meals at whichever house we rent for our visit. Cape Kiwanda Marketplace has a nice selection of freshly caught fish and often has locally smoked salmon that is the hero for our favorite smoked salmon pasta.
Lodging in Pacific City
The Inn at Cape Kiwanda looks directly out at the surf spot, albeit across the road and past the beach parking lot. The rooms were recently updated when a big property management firm acquired the hotel, and I miss the more personal touches like Friday afternoon drinks and free coffee in the lobby from before the corporate takeover.
The location is perfect, and every room looks west toward the ocean.
The same corporate group manages the luxury Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa. Built right on the bluff directly above the beach, Headlands opened in 2018, offering a welcome high-end experience on the Oregon Coast. The rooms are a bit on the cozy side, but the expansive view of the surf makes the space feel much bigger. Each floor of the lodge has an honor snack bar filled with locally sourced sweet and savory treats.
There is a full spa, outdoor hot tub, and even an activities concierge they call “adventure coaches,” who will plan local excursions. I particularly enjoyed the sunset bonfire on the beach. The coaches built the fire, provided comfy seating, stocked a cooler with beer, wine, non-alcoholic drinks for the kids, and all the fixings for s’mores.
Ending the day with the sun setting along the ocean horizon felt like the best kind of Pacific Northwest luxury.
Beachfront and Inland Rentals in Pacific City
More often than not, we tend to rent a beach house. This is the best bet when we are visiting Pacific City with more than just our immediate family.
VRBO, Airbnb, and the local Meredith Lodging all offer both beachfront and inland houses for rent. Even though Pacific City is relatively under the radar, finding a beachfront rental house for a summer week will take planning, as they often book six months to a year in advance. Some inland properties are easier to find without that much lead time.
Views of the Northern Lights in Pacific City, Oregon.
Pacific City: A Hidden Gem of the Oregon Coast
Pacific City has grown in the 20 years I have been visiting, but it remains a somewhat in-the-know kind of beach town. The hordes of Oregon Coast tourists tend to visit mainstays like Cannon Beach and Seaside, further north up Highway 101, leaving Pacific City to the beer lovers and surfers.
There isn’t much to do besides walking along the beautiful beach, running up a giant sand dune, and enjoying the soothing sounds of the Pacific Ocean crashing upon the shore. That’s just fine with me; I’ll keep riding this wave for as long as I can.
Photos by Ariel Frager
—
The post Follow the Surfers: An Insider’s Guide to Pacific City, Oregon appeared first on Road Trips For Families.
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